Six Intelligent Ingredients Every Woman Should Use
October 03 2017 – Cassandra Hilton
Six Intelligent Ingredients Every Woman Should Be Using In Her 20s – Part Two
Whether you want to ensure wrinkle-free skin is in the future or you simply want to maintain its long-term health, implementing these tips into your skincare regimen now is crucial.
If your unsure about what first steps to take, we have you covered! We've asked our brands founder and naturopath, Cassandra her top tips for anti-ageing essentials for both inner and outer beauty that should be on your radar now. Trust me you'll thank us later!
1. Collagen
Research shows that as early as age 25, our skin’s two structural proteins—collagen and elastin begin to decrease, fast tracking you to aged skin and wrinkles.
Collagen constitutes three quarters of the dry weight of the skin, we clearly need to keep making the stuff, and in plentiful amounts.
Remember....you can’t stockpile collagen against future shortages as it exists in finite amounts in the skin. You can, however, ensure that your collagen production schedule is on track for renewal!
The large molecule size of collagen makes it impossible to permeate the skin in topical products, but we can support collagen's building blocks with antioxidants that assist to prevent collagen breakdown (known as degradation) and to renew collagen - remember the rule no Vitamin C, no collagen production!
When opting in for skincare to boost collagen, look for well formulated stabilized ascorbic acid serums or the latest vitamin c esters such as ascorbyl tetraisoplamitate in Luminosity Vitamin C Serum that enhance stability and efficacy as part of the delivery system.
In today’s lifestyle, people need high quality supplements to fill the gaps in their diets. This is where ingestible collagen comes in. Hydrolyzed collagen supplements come in many forms with some containing the collagen types I (mostly bovine + fish source) and III (predominantly bovine source) both are known for restoring skin firmness and elasticity. Collagen type II is beneficial to reduce joint problems associated with arthritis, but its impact on skin is negligible.
With so many collagen products on the market we've done our research for you - The Beauty Chef’s COLLAGEN Inner Beauty Boost™ *not sponsored or affiliated in any way but we love the fact that this product combines pre-probiotics with antioxidants and bio-fermented superfoods, its also free of marine and animal collagen sources!
2. Hyped, feared and misunderstood - retinol
The powerful Vitamin A derivative is more accessible than ever in skincare serums and creams. Despite the rumours that it thins the skin and that sensitive skin can't handle this superhero, retinol can be beneficial for inflammatory conditions such as acne and redness, or for signs early ageing like lines and wrinkles. Sign me up, right?
You may have thought that retinol products are best reserved until wrinkles have already developed, but this is not true, incorporating retinol into an anti-aging skincare regimen is relevant for 20-somethings to prevent and protect against photoaging such as UV damage, environmental pollutants and toxins.
Retinoic acid is a genuine cell signaller—it works by attaching to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) on fibroblasts, instructing them to perform several tasks, including to produce more collagen, make more skin cells, induce collagen breakdown, normalise skin cell development, regulate sebum. Be sure to read our beginners guide to retinol if you are new to this super hero!
Retinol sends a signal to the fibroblast to make more collagen, but vitamin C is the rate-limiting step in the biosynthesis of collagen—meaning it must be present in skin tissue for that command to be carried out.
When it comes to retinol, vitamin A has increased synergy with other antioxidants, which is why you will often find these two ingredients combined together. Researchers found that “repeated topical application of a preparation containing both retinol and vitamin C could reverse, at least in part, skin changes induced by both chronological (natural aging) and photoaging (UV, smoke, pollutants).”
Elemental A + C +E Serum provides a synergistic blend of antioxidants vitamins A, C and E with hyaluronic acid to bolster collagen production.
3. Vitamin C
Normal skin needs high concentrations of vitamin C, which plays many roles in the skin, including the formation of the skin barrier and collagen in the dermis, the ability to counteract skin oxidation, and the modulation of cancer cells and growth.
The content of ascorbic acid in the epidermis, the most outer layer of the skin is 425% higher than the content in the dermis, and there is a concentration gradient of ascorbic acid in the epidermal keratinocytes which maintain the function and integrity of the skin barrier, preventing skin water loss.
Vitamin C forms part of a sophisticated and complete antioxidant system in response to oxidation reactions and free radicals generated through UV exposure, smoke and ozone pollution.
Vitamin C is an "essential" nutrient that must be obtained through the diet, as we cannot synthesis this vitamin for use. However, studies have shown that very little dietary levels of vitamin C make it to the skin, which is why it is so important to apply topical vitamin c serums and creams daily to the skin.
When it comes to brightening activity of vitamin C in dark spots, pigmentation and post inflammatory hyper pigmentation, vitamin C helps to inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which prevents melanin production, lightening pigmentation.
Furthermore, the combination of vitamin C and vitamin E inhibits melanocyte production more significantly than vitamin C alone, with a strong synergy to these antioxidant vitamins, you will often find these two antioxidants within formulations and also with ferulic acid.
As an antioxidant, vitamin C is a powerful anti-inflammatory active, reducing oxidative stress and inflammation associated with sun damage, post inflammatory hyper pigmentation, atopic skin conditions and acne.
Natural ageing, UV damage, environmental stress such as pollution, rapidly decline the skins antioxidant reservoir reducing the skins natural defence to free radicals, weakening the skin barrier, reducing collagen, elasticity and tone.
Ocinium Luminosity Vitamin C Serum contains our highest percentage of vitamin C together with rosehip seed oil rich in polyphenols. This vitamin C ester delivers specific brightening activity in the skin, preventing collagen breakdown and boosting collagen levels in the skin.
When considering your vitamin c skincare routine, layer antioxidant rich products to increase antioxidant defence throughout the day and build collagen at night.
Our Metamorphis Multi-Vitamin Cream multitasks in to prevent aging and increase hydration. Concentrated with vitamin A, C, E, Pro-Vitamin B5 and Niacinamide to boost your skins immune defence against environmental damage and lifestyle aggressors such as stress and fatigue.
4. Vitamin B3
Niacinamade, also known as Vitamin B3 is a cellular communicating ingredient that transcends the skin’s surface and reaches to the deepest sub-layers of the skin to tell the cells how to behave, encouraging normal and healthy skin function.
Immortelle Vitamin B3 Serum contains Vitamin B3 + B5 (panethonol) to balance sebum production, reduce inflammation, calm irritations, decrease breakouts and restore the skins calmness and clarity. This multi-functional ingredient works tirelessly to increase the skin’s immune response and reinstate a healthy complexion.
5. AHA’s
While the term “acid” may instil concern, these organic molecules are actually very gentle on the skin. The two most effective AHAs are lactic and glycolic acid, but to be effective they require a tight pH range of 3-4 and outside of this range they will be rendered completely ineffective.
AHAs are highly effective when it comes to removing dead skin cells and impurities from the skins surface without harsh scrubbing or irritation to the skin.
Ecdysis Bio-Ferment Enzyme Cleanse contains organic fruit acids with lactic and glycol acid and papaya ferment to perfect your skin’s surface and reveal brighter, glowing skin.
6. Green Tea
Many of us are familiar with the amazing health benefits of drinking green tea, but did you know that green tea is also one of the most researched polyphenols for preventing age related skin imperfections and repairing skin damage?
With naturally occurring compounds known as catechins, green tea assists in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of pollution exposure and UV radiation, that damages our skin at a molecular level by accelerating the ageing process and contributing to the formation of lines, wrinkles and decreased skin tone.
Green Tea + Ginseng Facial Oil contains concentrated extracts of both green tea and white tea to prevent free radicals from wreaking havoc on your skin.
Green tea seed oil antioxidants intercept free radical damage reducing inflammation and sensitive skin. Ginseng oil a potent skin adaptagen bolsters circulation and oxygen to cells improving the skins ability to adapt to environmental stress, reducing the appearance of fatigued and stressed skin. The non-comedogenic oil rich in essential fatty acids is lightweight and ultra hydrating, increases elasticity for smooth, luminous skin.
When it comes to strengthening and protecting your skins barrier, oils directly address the lipid layer of the skin and balance its natural oil production and moisture levels.
Our complex oil blends are dynamic players in any strategic skincare regimen. They moisturise by replenishing epidermal lipids, then allowing the skin’s barrier function to do its job—a key part of which is regulating the skin’s own water content.
7. Hyaluronic acid (oops did we say six?)
Did you know that this water-loving molecule occurs naturally in the extracellular matrix of our skin? Unfortunately, production decreases as we age resulting in dryness and wrinkling, but luckily for us we can boost levels through topical skincare.
Composed of long chains of non-sulfated glycosaminoglycans, HLA plays an important role in stimulating dermal fibroblast migration and proliferation. Hyaluronic acid is naturally occurring and completely compatible with the skin and it won't cause breakouts, which can still be a concern during this decade. It helps plump skin and reduces fine lines so you look instantly refreshed.
Hyaluronic acid is featured through our entire serum range. Utilising a pure, vegan sourced HLA to hydrate and plump skin cells and prepares the skin for the delivery of key actives, resulting in supple looking skin and a noticeable reduction of fine lines and wrinkles with continued use.
Serums are active, highly concentrated products intended to penetrate deep into the skin and provide targeted treatments. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, enzymes, antioxidants and vitamins, our serums address specific skin concerns of hyperpigmentation, inflammation, breakouts, ageing and skin health maintenance.
Serums are designed to be layered and interchanged according to your current skin condition – think of them as your skin’s daily dose of topical vitamins.
References
- Histological evaluation of a topically applied Retinol-Vitamin C combination. Seité S, Bredoux C, Compan D, et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005;18:81–7.